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The Surfer's Guide to Waves, Coasts and Climates
| Author: Tony Butt |
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| ISBN: 9780906720585 |
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| Description: |
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Following international acclaim for Surf Science: An Introduction to Waves for Surfing (Alison Hodge, 2002), Tony Butt’s The Surfer’s Guide to Waves, Coasts and Climates will appeal to surfers and all those who are fascinated by the sea and the coast.
The perfect wave is every surfer’s dream. But where does that wave come from, and what makes it perfect? It doesn’t just appear on the coast, but may be the result of a storm thousands of kilometres away, which depends on the air flow in the upper atmosphere; this, in turn, may rely on long-term atmospheric patterns that affect the entire globe. When a swell arrives at the coast, it already has its own unique character. But whether the waves are going to be rights, lefts, short, long, fast, hollow, or even rideable at all, depends on the characteristics of the coast. And the coast itself is the result of a unique set of processes, linked to the rest of the planet and going back into the depths of time.
The Surfer’s Guide to Waves, Coasts and Climates covers everything from coastal geology, climatic cycles and big waves, to coastal erosion, tsunamis and the effects of global warming on the surf. All this is explained in layman’s terms, with clear illustrations, so all you need to enjoy it is curiosity and a liking for the coast and the waves.
You can use Google Book Search to view this book here.
Dr Tony Butt started surfing in the early 1970s on the south coast of England. After many years travelling and wondering where the waves came from, he decided to go back to school, and obtained a PhD in Physical Oceanography. He is the main author of Surf Science: An Introduction to Waves for Surfing, and has written many articles on the science of surfing and the coastal environment. He is currently a Visiting Fellow at the Coastal Processes Research Group, University of Plymouth, England, and has a regular oceanography column in The Surfer’s Path magazine. He lives in a forgotten corner of north-west Spain, enjoying a few big uncrowded waves and a bit of peace and quiet. He runs a wave prediction website, www.swell-forecast.com.
1st edition
Paperback with flaps
176 pages
60 photographs, 30 figures, 11 charts, 11 maps
246 x 189mm
10.03.09
Distributed in Australia and New Zealand by Woodslane.
Introduction
Coastal Geology
1 Waves and Beaches
2 Reefs
3 Rivermouths
Climate and Big Waves
4 Climatic Cycles, Storminess and Surf
5 Searching for the Biggest Waves
6 Controlling the Waves: Every Surfer’s Dream?
Coastal Intervention
7 Coastal Erosion
8 Coastal Modification and the Surf
9 Oil Spills and Ecocide
The Planet Bites Back
10 Tropical Cyclones
11 Global Warming and the Surf
12 Tsunamis
Some Books You Might Enjoy
Index
Acknowledgements
‘Tony Butt brings great credibility to the task of summarizing the natural and manmade forces at work in our world of oceans and beaches. ... A comprehensive overview of most all of the phenomena and issues relevant to surfers ... also addresses issues like coastal armoring and erosion, pollution and habitat destruction, as well as the ways in which the earth "bites back": cyclones/hurricanes, tsunamis and global warming.
‘... Lavishly illustrated with charts and lots of nice photos.
Job well done.’ (The Surfer’s Path, Issue 72, April 2009)
‘Tony... mixes a long-time surfer's intuitive knowledge of coastal environments with expertise in oceanography in a sparkling way. His book is an enlightening and beautifully illustrated surf science odyssey... It leaves you with a holistic understanding of the nature and beauty of the coastal world... Above all, it inspires ecological action’ (The Cornishman, 02.07.09)
‘arresting photographs... straight-forward and easy to read... one of the best "science in context" books I have seen. A good context young people will find appealing used to cover science, global warming and local political issues.’ (School Science Review, issue 335, December 2009)
‘As usual, Dr Tony Butt's latest tome gives surfers an insight into a plethora of subjects that affect the surfing playing field, including some we might not immediately associate with wave riding. It's delivered in a laconic, laid-back style that doesn't take too much brain-power and the helpful diagrams make it a breeze for the layman to understand. Good building block for constructing a broad environmental knowledge base.’ (Bruce Sutherland, Publishing Editor The Stormrider Guides, 23.03.10)
‘Richly illustrated with some quality images of world class waves, the book would sit just as comfortably on your coffee table as it would in a research library. ...The writing style is equally relaxed and comfortable, with the infinitely complex processes at work in the ocean environment explained in a way that is easy to grasp, without becoming condescending.
‘... will The Surfers Guide make you surf better? Possibly not. Will The Surfers Guide make you a better surfer? Unquestionably.’ (Surf Talk, April 2010. You can read the whole review here.)
‘Il nuovo libro di Tony Butt, oceanografo di fama mondiale, descrive da un punto di vista surfistico il macrosistema terra. Un occhio di riguardo è riservato ai problemi dell'erosione, dell'inquinamento e del surriscaldamento. L'inglese di Tony è asciutto e semplice. Le illustrazioni sono chiare e riescono a far luce su concetti anche difficili come la North Atlantic Oscillation, i cicloni tropicali e il complesso sistema che genera le maree.’ (Surf News Magazine, 74, 2, Marzo/Aprile 2010 |
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RRP: £15.00 |
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